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Sunset in the Chobe National Park
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The Chobe National Park,
which is the second largest national park in Botswana and covers
10,566 square kilometres, has one of the greatest concentrations
of game found on the African continent. Its uniqueness in the abundance
of wildlife and the true African nature of the region, offers a
safari experience of a lifetime.
The park is divided
into four distinctly different eco systems: Serondela with its lush
plains and dense forests in the Chobe River
area in the extreme north-east; the Savuti Marsh in the west about
fifty kilometres north of Mababe gate; the Linyanti Swamps in the
north-west and the hot dry hinterland in between.
From Kasane,
follow the new tar road past the airport to Sedudu Gate. Here all
persons are required to check in and pay the park fees, unless proceeding
on the tar road to Ngoma. Four-wheel drive vehicles are essential,
especially if the intention is to travel extensively into the park
- deep sand in some areas tests the skill of the driver and the
capabilities of the vehicle. However, most rewarding game viewing
awaits.
The original inhabitants
of what is now the park were the San people, otherwise known in
Botswana as the Basarwa.
They were hunter-gatherers who lived by moving from one area to
another in search of water, wild fruits and wild animals. The San
were later joined by groups of the Basubiya people and later still,
around 1911, by a group of Batawana led by Sekgoma. When the country
was divided into various land tenure systems, late last century
and early this century, the larger part of the area that is now
the national park was classified as crown land. In 1931 the idea
of creating a national park in the area was first mooted, in order
to protect the wildlife from extinction and to attract visitors.
In 1932, an area of some 24,000 square kilometres in the Chobe district
was declared a non-hunting area and the following year, the protected
area was increased to 31,600 square kilometres. However, heavy tsetse
fly infestations resulted in the whole idea lapsing in 1943. In
1957, the idea of a national park was raised again when an area
of about 21,000 square kilometres was proposed as a game reserve
and eventually a reduced area was gazetted in 1960 as Chobe Game
Reserve. Later, in 1967, the reserve was declared a national park
- the first national park in Botswana. There was a large settlement,
based on the timber industry, at Serondela, some remains of which
can still be seen today. This settlement was gradually moved out
and the Chobe National Park was finally empty of human occupation
in 1975. In 1980 and again in 1987, the boundaries were altered,
increasing the park to its present size.

Tourists in the Chobe National Park
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A major feature of Chobe
National Park is its elephant
population. First of all, the Chobe elephant comprise part of
what is probably the largest surviving continuous elephant population.
This population covers most of northern Botswana plus northwestern
Zimbabwe. The Botswana's elephant population is currently estimated
at around 120,000. This elephant population has built up steadily
from a few thousand since the early 1900s and has escaped the massive
illegal offtake that has decimated other populations in the 1970s
and 1980s. The Chobe
elephant are migratory, making seasonal movements of up to 200
kilometres from the Chobe and Linyanti
rivers, where they concentrate in the dry season, to the pans in
the southeast of the park, to which they disperse in the rains.
The elephants, in this area have the distinction of being the largest
in body size of all living elephants though the ivory is brittle
and you will not see many huge tuskers among these rangy monsters.
Public camping grounds
are situated within Chobe at Ihaha, Savuti and Linyanti with toilet
and shower facilities available. Each of these camping grounds has
its own unique character and a visit to each is recommended - however,
it is once again stressed that a four-wheel drive vehicle is essential.
Visitors travelling through the park should remember that this is
essentially a wilderness area and, as such, no services are available
between Kasane and Maun.
Because of this, it is wise to carry basic safety items such as
water, food, fuel, torches, extra wheels, tools, jacks and pumps.
In all public camping grounds booking for campsites is essential.

Ihaha
Serondela has been closed
down and a new camping ground has been opened at Ihaha. Ihaha has
modern facilities, an attractive reception office and is more remote
in nature.
Savuti
Often described as one
of, if not the best, wildlife-viewing area in Africa today. Savuti
boasts one of the highest concentrations of wildlife left on the
African continent. Animals are present during all seasons, and at
certain times of the year their numbers can be staggering. If you
allow yourself adequate time here (a minimum of three to four days
is recommended) you will probably see nearly all the major species:
giraffe, elephant,
zebra, impala, tsessebe,
roan, sable, wildebeest, kudu, buffalo,
waterbuck, warthog, eland and accompanying predators including lion,
hyaena, jackal, bat-eared
fox and possibly even cheetah
and wild dog.
Savuti is famous for
its predators, particularly its resident lions and spotted hyaena
populations. Sometimes you will have them uncomfortably close, as
both they and marauding hyaenas do wander through the campsite.
Do NOT feed them. Almost certainly you will hear lion at night.
Savuti has an excellent
new campsite. Lying 172 kilometres southwest of Sedudu gate, Savuti
camping ground overlooks the Savuti River channel, which is currently
dry. Geographically, Savuti is an area of many unknowns. One of
the greatest mysteries is the Savuti Channel itself, which has over
the past 100 years inexplicably dried up and recommenced its flow
several times. The present dry period started in 1982.

Linyanti

One of the roads through the Chobe National Park
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In the furthest corner
of Chobe National Park lies the forgotten paradise of Linyanti.
Secluded and uncrowded, this short strip of swampy river frontage
is reminiscent of the Okavango's permanent waterways with papyrus-lined
lagoons, reed-beds and a towering canopy of trees. The Linyanti
Swamp covers an area of almost 900km2, to which follows
the river and fills the area between the converging courses of the
Kwando and Linyanti rivers. The national park only touches the river
for a short section on the far eastern edge of the swamp.
The wildlife is plentifull,
especially in the dry winter months when great concentrations of
elephant, buffalo
and zebra congregate
along the river, with giraffe,
impala and roan antelope being seen in the forests. The birdlife
is diverse, if not overwhelming in its numbers. Waterbirds, including
pelican, are common.
Linyanti has a small
camping ground, 39 kilometres northwest of Savuti, among tall riverine
trees overlooking the perennial Linyanti River. This is generally
a quieter camp as it is off the main tourist circuit, but for those
seeking a remote and peaceful environment, with spectacular dry
season concentrations of elephant, Linyanti is the place to go.
Access is rough and sandy and only reliable 4x4 vehicles should
attempt this journey.
The
Sedudu gate near Kasane also gives access to a public road that
passes for 54 kilometres through the park to Ngoma gate. Ngoma is
the entrance used by visitors from Namibia, with the border crossing
nearby. The southern entrance to the park is at Mababe gate, along
a route that connects with the Moremi Game
Reserve. Mababe gate is some 56 kilometres south of Savuti and
many visitors enter from Kasane, camp at Ihaha and then at Savuti,
exit through Mababe and on through to Moremi - or the other way
around. Apart from this circuit and the charming camp ground at
Linyanti, another route within the park, which intrepid visitors
take, is south from Sedudu for 68 kilometres to Noghatsaa and then
across to Savuti, which is a further 140 kilometres. Roads through
this area are not clearly signed at this time, so visitors should
carefully plan their route before setting out and it is advisable
to inform park staff of intentions to visit the Noghatsaa area.
Game viewing is at its
best during the dry season, when the majority of natural pans have
dried up, and it is wise to avoid the Chobe
River front during the heavy rains from January to March. It
is also wise to note that no fuel supplies are available within
the park and visitors travelling between Kasane
and Maun should ensure that they are self-contained
for the entire journey. All drinking water should be boiled or chemically
treated. Mosquitoes are prevalent throughout the park and visitors
are strongly advised to take an anti-malarial
prophylactic before, during and for four weeks from visiting
the park, especially during the rainy
season.

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