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Driving with 'mokoro' in the Moremi Game Reserve
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Moremi, hunted by the
Bushman as
long as 10,000 years ago, was initiated by the Batawana tribe and
covers some 4,871 km2, as the eastern section of the
Okavango Delta. Moremi is mostly described as one of the most beautiful
wildlife reserves in Africa. It combines mopane
woodland and acacia forests, floodplains and lagoons. It
is the great diversity of plant and animal life that makes Moremi
so well known.
The idea to create a
game reserve first originated in 1961 and was approved by the Batawana
at a kgotla in 1963.
The area was then officially designated as a game reserve in April
1965 and was initially run by the Fauna Conservation Society of
Ngamiland. Moremi was then extended to include Chiefs Island in
1976. In August 1979 the reserve was taken over by the Department
of Wildlife and National Parks. A further extension was added as
recently as 1992 and now the reserve contains within its boundaries
approximately twenty percent of the Okavango Delta.

How to get there

Leopard in the Moremi Game Reserve
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Travelling north-east
from Maun, firstly along a fine full width
tar road to Shorobe, then on a wide gravel road, a veterinary control
fence is encountered - locally known as the buffalo fence, constructed
to protect the flourishing cattle industry to the south from any
diseases that may be carried by wildlife. Passing through the gate,
a first glimpse of the reason that this is described as 4x4 country
is obtained, as the deep sandy track ahead is in stark contrast
to the previous road. After a short distance, a left hand fork in
the track is taken, travelling through wildlife country of mopane
and acacia woodland, interspersed by areas of open grassland. Low
speed is essential on this route, due to the soft churning sand
and the chance of viewing wildlife.
Eventually, after having
travelled 99 kilometres from Maun, the southern
entrance gate of the Moremi Game Reserve, Magwee, is reached. Here,
nestling amongst a glade of tall mopane trees, is a shady camping
ground with two small ablution blocks. Here it is essential to guard
foodstuffs carefully against the unwelcome attentions of baboons
and monkeys.
From the south gate
of Moremi, there is a choice of roads. There is a direct route of
thirty kilometres through to the northern entrance gate at Khwai,
where the headquarters of the reserve are situated. At Khwai there
is a large public camping ground situated in a well-shaded area
overlooking the river.
Here at Khwai, a long
bridge constructed entirely out of mopane poles, forms a picturesque
entrance to the reserve for visitors arriving from the north. This
bridge, which rattles and shakes as vehicles pass over it, must
be one of the most photographed structures in the northern areas
of Botswana and is so much a part of the character of Moremi. Smaller
bridges, of a similar construction, can be seen in other areas of
the reserve and, in all, a gang of thirteen men is required for
continuous maintenance work.
From the south gate,
another route goes for 58 kilometres north-west through some diverse
scenery, across First and Second Bridges, to a further camping ground
at Third Bridge. This area, which borders on the delta and Mboma
Island, enjoys heavy concentrations of wildlife in the dry season
and one stands a good chance of seeing elusive cheetahs hunting.
The water that flows under the bridge here looks clear, cool and
inviting - but beware, crocodiles would welcome anyone foolish enough
to swim! Care should be taken if filling buckets (safer to use the
standpipe) or undertaking any activity close to the water.

Swamps of the Okavango Delta in the Moremi Game Reserve
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The third optional route
from the south gate goes through the heart of the mopane forest
for 42 kilometres to Xakanaxa. Here, once again, there is a public
camping ground overlooking the edge of the delta. From Xakanaxa,
a route can be taken to the north gate at Khwai, which is some 45
kilometres in distance, passing through a delightful area known
as Hippo Pool, which is only 14 kilometres from the north gate.
However, this road is currently inaccessible as it has been flooded
by the waters of the Khwai river. Hippo Pool lives up to its name,
as there is an abundance of those creatures in residence. They can
be viewed in comfort from an observation platform overlooking the
pool. It was near here that the Bugakhwe people used to have their
village, but, with the creation of the game reserve, they were moved
in 1963 to their present location near north gate, which is known
as Khwai Village. The village boasts a population of only about
three hundred people. There are a few basic supply stores in the
Khwai Village, which can be very useful if one runs out of something
or would like the luxury of an ice cold drink! A few of these villagers
have attractive basketwork for sale to visitors.
Moremi is best visited
in the dry season and game viewing is at its peak from July to October,
when seasonal pans dry up and the wildlife concentrates on the permanent
water. The winter months of May to August can be very cold at night,
but pleasantly warm, under clear blue skies, during the day. From
October until the rains break in late November or early December,
the weather can be extremely hot - both day and night.
Mosquitoes are prevalent
throughout the reserve and it is strongly recommended that visitors
should take an anti-malarial prophylactic
before, during and for four weeks after their visit, especially
during the rainy season. Water for drinking should be boiled or
chemically treated.
The reserve enjoys a
wide diversity of habitat and is well known for the height of the
trees in the mopane tongue, which covers the central area. However,
the mainland part forms only about thirty percent of the reserve
and is, in many ways untypical - the remaining area being part of
the Okavango Delta. Birdlife is prolific and varied, ranging from
water birds to shy forest dwellers. Elephants
are numerous, particularly during the dry season, as well as a range
of other wildlife species from buffalo,
giraffe, lion,
leopard, cheetah,
wild dog, hyaena, jackal and the full range of antelope, large and
small, including the red lechwe. Rhino,
both black and white, were here in the past, but most of the few
remaining have been sought out for translocation to the protection
of a sanctuary, away from the attentions of illegal hunters. Wild
dog, whose numbers are so rapidly dwindling elsewhere, are regularly
sighted in the Moremi and have been subject to a project being run
in the area since 1989 so these animals are often seen wearing collars
placed on them by the researchers. It is claimed that the Moremi
area contains about thirty percent of all living wild dog.
Visitors should note
that there are no fuel supplies available in Moremi, the nearest
fuel and garage facilities being in Maun.
Similarly, apart from the limited range of goods on offer in Khwai
Village, no food supplies are available in the Reserve.

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